The world of fine wine – Issue 37 2012
Horst Sauer Escherndorfer Lump Riesling GG Trocken Franken Germany 2010
(13%ABV) – 16
AJ: Full gold, with some green glints. Soft, warm, chiffon scents of crème anglaise; a little roasted white meat in the background. There is, though, also some sappy freshness to give the aromatic profile lift. Harmonious and seductive. One the palate, the wine almost spurts into the mouth: very juicy, fresh, sappy, a “Rite of Spring”. The fruit spectrum is not immensely detailed but makes up for that with its winning energy and force. There´s a vinous finish. It´s fully dry but not in any way tart, hard, or austere; the alcohol is beautifully incorporated. 16
AL: A pure and flinty nose, with youthful fruit and ripe citrus aromas. The palate has good grip and offers plenty of young fruit, ripe lemon, and a fairly long finish. Well balanced and enjoyable. 15
SR: Citrus-yellow color. Very clear and aromatic on the nose, with a steely minerality. Quite cool and a little bit yeasty, but this is a classic again – very precise and focused. A racy palate, with steely acidity; no experiments; lovely fruit, lingering piquancy and salinity, and sappy peach flavors (yes, a great wine is allowed to have fruit!). Reductive in style, very forward but with electrifying acidity, bone-dry and mineral – gandenlos. 17
